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The map said Turkey. I wasn't so sure. The terrain was not quite Bryce Canyon, Utah, not quite lunar, not quite Disney. It was more like a wizard had computer-generated this extraordinary landscape. Or was this some press agent's incredible embellishment? As tourists on a three-week tour of Turkey, we had visited Istanbul with its vestiges of Ottoman treasures and grandeur, seen Roman ingenuity in the aqueducts and cisterns, viewed the burial vaults of the Whirling Dervishes in Konya, mourned the fallen at Gallipoli with its 31 military cemeteries, and marveled at the white marble road grooved by chariot wheels at the excavated ruins of ancient Ephesus.


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In general, the Goreme environment does seem to strike the right balance and stays worthy of tourist attention. There's always someone to talk to, if it is not some other tourists you have met, then it is a waiter inviting you into a restaurant or a carpet salesman engaging you into friendship in order to seduce you into eventually buying a carpet.

Tourists differ both in the extent of their quest for authenticity and in the extent to which they are prepared to put up with perceived inauthenticity. However, even then, tourists may still become suspicious that the event is Wantfd contrived or packaged for them, especially if there are other tourists there. This activity causes some distress in the village, mainly because of the negative meaning attached to images in Islam, and numerous disputes arise when tourists take pictures of people without asking.

As long as tourists behave in a "respectful" manner, they can enjoy some interaction with the local people. An Australian aex told me that she "would hate the Goreme people to all be driving cars in twenty years.

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However, the villagers now realise the value of their old houses as tourism assets to be turned into 'cave' hotelsand their own valuing of the chimney houses is slowly zex to be more consistent with tourist representations. Furthermore, 'travellers' believe that it is insensitive 'tourists' who spoil Other cultures, and thus claim no responsibility themselves for any misgivings.

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The consumption of certain touristic experiences described by such adjectives as alternative, adventurous, unique and authentic, serves an ideology which separates so-called 'travellers' from the perceived crassness of package holidaying. Tourists, for MacCannell, are alienated by the conditions Greme contemporary life, and engage in a 'modern ritual' in order to "overcome the discontinuity of modernity" by "incorporating its fragments into unified experience" ibid.

What is more, as one Australian tourist said, "The mosque calling to prayer and children asking you for bonbons are all part of the landscape", so that adventure is sought by "getting Gorems the culture" as well as through interaction with the physical landscape. However, although Bruner follows Baudrillard in the idea that the "preference for the simulacrum is the essence of post-modern tourism" Bruner,on is important that Goreme is only "like" a playground because it is actually 'real'.

These tourists are then troubled to find a place 'polluted' and rendered 'inauthentic' by modernity, and even worse, tourism.

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The tourists here do not have a preference for simulacrum, quite the contrary, they consider Goreme to be "heaven on earth" because it is both a playground and real at the same time. An imaginary moon-world of fairy-chimneys and troglodytes, Goreme is an ideal of the tourist imagination. Sxe buildings and tourism businesses appear inconsistent with the 'original' cave-dwellings, and consequently, many tourists find that Goreme is not the 'real' "sixth century village" which they had hoped it to be.

The young men in Goreme are developing what Picard has called 'touristic culture', or are becoming 'touristified' through the process of tourism production Picard, Without fully realising it, Goreme village is asserting an identity of the past to tourists, thereby creating an image of itself which most tourists will come here and find.

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In the Cappadokya area, tourism has developed fairly rapidly since the mid 's, and the villagers of Goreme Gorems continuously trying to find a suitable niche for themselves in the touristic processes. As tourism is becoming more important in the economy, the local entrepreneurs are becoming less patient with 'hard-up travellers', as well as disillusioned by their attitudes.

The 'back' part of the village is generally women's domain. Their taste in travel necessitates 'getting into' the culture and physical environment of their destination, rather than merely glimpsing at it through a frame. Moreover, there is a television in almost all of the troglodyte dwellings, and images of a richer Istanbul-centred Other seen in advertisements and soap operas may have Glreme stronger influence on their self-representations than tourism.

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They are suspicious of the perceived over-friendliness of the salesmen and waiters, so that some tourists reach the point of complete mistrust, and ignore virtually anyone who speaks to them. Donkeys and horses and carts are much nicer. However, during my stay in Goreme, I observed a of occasions which showed that the gaze, and indeed the power in interactions between tourists and local people is not all one-sided.

Tourists experience staged hospitality as a double let-down.

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Their time in Goreme is therefore fairly unorganised and their interactions with Wated local people unmanaged by guides. We explored Soganli Valley and Dasabagi Canyon.

For the foreign woman, not only do the liminal experiences of tourism allow for certain moral constraints present in normal life to be put aside, but she has found a place where she is charmed by numerous attractive young men. Tourism anywhere le to an aesthetic reflexivity whereby people on both sides of the equation come to reflect on and evaluate their social conditions and their society's place within the world Lash and Urry, Whilst it is generally accepted as positive that tourism brings economic gains, the increasing amount of sexual encounters between female tourists and local entrepreneurs and service employees has stirred up some disillusionment and discontent.

It's nice for time to stand still in some places". To the thousands who pass through their portals today, they still stand as a majestic witness to the faith of thousands from ages past. As we trudged up the path of one cliff in Soganli Valley, we saw a local woman high up on one of the pinnacles.

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Kadri pointed out some of the shapes that the rocks have taken. Whilst it cannot be denied that visual images and experiences do play a major role in post-modern tourism, I would argue that there has become something of an over-visualisation in tourism industry and tourism discourse [1].

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The expectancy that things will not go smoothly is all part of the 'adventure' in Turkey, and the amicable terms in which services are conducted provide the close encounters which these tourists are seeking. Indeed, the 'travellers' in Goreme do show a marked desire for the village to somehow remain static in a primitive and untouched state.

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The nesting birds inside excrete the guano that is then collected for use as fertilizer. For tourists then, Goreme is a living museum. That led to varying degrees of erosion from wind, rain, ice. Some areas are so thick with these columns esx they look like a succession of petrified mushroom plantations. Through all these centuries, they have been protected against light and changes in humidity because of the caves and the wonderful impermeability of the tufa stone on which they are painted.

Besides the economic gains to be had from their businesses, the local community wishes to offer hospitality and friendship to tourists in relationships of mutual respect.

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Sights like these, of course, are what keep travelers traveling. Both of these assertions are currently embedded in the actions of a 'Save Goreme Committee' started by a non-Turk who has managed a pansiyon in the village for a of years. Here we return to the idea of Goreme being a 'living museum', through which the people of the village are gazed Gorme, appropriated and collected. With grazed hands and bruised knees, tourists coming back after a day of hiking and clambering through caves and fairy chimneys, look vibrant in comparison to those climbing out of a mini-bus after a Wantde tour of the sights.

There is a belief amongst Goreme's tourists that "tourism destroys the culture" since, through tourism, "the people have contact with the Western way of life". At the same time though, services must be consistent with tourist representations of Turkish villages and Turkish people, so that whilst providing tourists with what they need, the tourist 'front' must somehow be appropriately 'other'. Then, from the soft stone, man carved out a network of complex underground cities.

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From it a footpath le through green, well-wooded stretches to the foot of the heights which look down imposingly upon the valley.


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